Sticky Brick Runt

Nearly all of the Runt's residue collects in the long narrow glass mouthpiece, the only real length of vapor path the device has. The glass heat intake on the opposite side stays comparatively clean, since what travels down it is dry torch air rather than vapor. The wood picks up oils around the rim of the chamber, and fine particulate ends up on the screen under the bowl.

1. Wait for the glass. The manual warns that glass retains heat, so give the heat intake a minute after torching. Twist the bricks gently to break the magnetic connection instead of yanking them apart.

2. Strip it in the right order. Lift the intake brick away to expose the chamber, then slide the mouthpiece and the heat intake out of their o-rings. The Runt separates with the heat intake still seated, which is why it reloads faster than the larger bricks, but a proper clean means pulling both pieces of glass.

3. Isopropyl belongs on glass and steel. Sticky Brick's maintenance note says glass components and screens come out of the Brick and get cleaned with isopropyl as needed. That covers the mouthpiece, the heat intake, the stainless screens, the 316 stainless restrictor disc and the 14.4mm U joint adapter. Rinse in warm water and dry everything before it goes back.

4. Wood takes warm water only. Clean the wooden bricks with a cotton swab and warm water, then dry thoroughly. No isopropyl on wood at all. Brush the chamber out or wipe it with a damp swab, and get under the screen while you are there. In our review the bricks responded to pipe cleaners and a soft brush much like a wooden pipe would.

5. Condition with Brick Butter. It is the only product Sticky Brick approves for its milled hardwood, so skip furniture oils and waxes.

6. Replace the screen after a scorch. Combustion taste lodges in the screen. Pry it out with tweezers or a straight pick, soak it or fit one of the six spares, then wipe the chamber floor beneath it.

7. O-rings go in before glass. Sticky Brick repeats this because it is what seals the unit. The o-rings also set the friction that holds the mouthpiece and heat intake at the height you set them, so gummy ones cause glass that creeps or binds.

8. Reseat the restrictor disc flat side up. The cylinder points down toward the bowl and screen, with the o-ring and flame intake going in after it. Older units with a smaller hole take it inverted. Keep the flared air intake on the side clear, since it feeds the continuous airflow the Runt depends on.